Rio Tokyo

Who am I?

29 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Whoever said, “the more you learn the less you know,” was stinkin’ brilliant. Or at least that’s what I tell myself when I think back over my few months in Japan and realize that even though I’ve learned a lot I’m now even less sure of myself than I was just a short time ago. I can’t begin to explain everything, but here are a few key points I understand well enough to write about.

1) Nothing is always true.

A few weeks ago, I started reading a book by Senko K. Maynard who says that the American and Japanese cultures have fundamental differences that impact every single thing we do. To illustrate, she describes our heros. In Japan, you have the Samurai who is socially integrated and an important part of society. In America, you have the cowboy who rejects power and values his individuality above all else. She sums up her comparison with a quote; “Japanese are trapped in the self-imposed concept of society while Americans are more likely to be shackled by faith in self.”

This is something I’ve understood since the beginning. Japanese are group-oriented and we’re not. But it wasn’t until I read this quote that I realized how deeply these differences go. I believe that street signs are necessary for getting around. I believe (with all my heart!) this is true. But that is because I come from a culture where I am expected to figure out how to get somewhere by myself. In Japan, they work together to get everyone to where they need to go. Signs aren’t as important as a friendly point in the right direction. In fact, the lack of signs helps to foster the community-focused culture that is an essential priority in Japan.

2) Sometimes it’s best to keep things spinning.

If you know me, you know I’m organized. I keep crazy lists. I can describe with meticulous detail where every single thing is in my house. I have always been proud of my ability to think linearly. I can see the end and quickly discern the steps needed to get there. I can break things down into manageable chunks and cross each chunk off happily when it’s finished. Good news right? Wrong (or is it really wrong…?) (see”Nothing is Always Right” below)

In Japan, I have learned about the value of keeping ideas spinning. In some cases the longer it spins, the better it gets. I believe now that my desire for immediate answers is sometimes just a reflection of a lazy mind. If I want the best solution, not just the fastest solution, it’s best to sit in uncomfortable ambiguity as long as possible. The reward, as I have seen, is a better and stronger solution.

3) Nothing is always right.

If I returned to my job at Target, kicked my feet up and took a snooze during a meeting, I would get in trouble. The consensus around the table would be that my behavior was rude and undoubtedly wrong. But in Japan, sleeping during a meeting simply signifies that you’re exhausted from a hard night at the office. Sleeping in a meeting is acceptable if not encouraged. So there you go. In the US, it’s clearly wrong to sleep in a meeting. In Japan, it’s clearly right. What makes it right or wrong has only to do with the perceptions of those around you.

This might seem simple enough. But this is just one example. What is alarming is that there are hundreds of examples like this. And this realization has me second-guessing all those little things in life which I had compartmentalized into boxes labeled “wrong,” “right,” “funny,” “sad,” “beautiful,” “ugly,” and even, “important.”

Finals are pretty much done and Brad and I are headed off for some heavy-duty traveling before heading back to the real world. So I’m signing off. See you stateside! I can’t wait. Thanks for reading.

Peaceful Hiroshima

28 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

As my time in Japan is winding down, I find myself sprinting to the sites I have left on my list to see. Unfortunately, one of the sites I saved for a last-minute look was Hiroshima. With its monuments, thoughtful people, beautiful landscape scenery, and tame/wild deer, I wish Brad and I would have reserved more time for taking it in.

We started our day with a tour of the Peace Memorial Park and heard a personal account of the bombing by an actual survivor. Her story was horrible. But it was clear from our interactions that there is a strong culture of people in Hiroshima who are committed to bringing peace to the world. It was inspiring and overwhelming. And we learned a lot.

After lunch, we raced to Miyajima Island. When Megan was visiting a few weeks ago, she said it was a must-see. Although we were feeling crunched for time, her recommendation caused us to prioritize a few things (like sleep!) to make sure we saw it. As usual, Megan was right. My favorite part was the tame-but-wild deer who were likely to eat your souvenirs or tickets if you didn’t keep track of them. We also took the rope-line to the top of the island’s mountain where we saw amazing views from all sides and one tame-but-wild monkey who seemed to have missed the bus to dinner.

We’re heading back to Tokyo right now and are hoping to make it to our hotel before the trains stop running for the night. Wish us luck!

Blossoms…everywhere

25 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Yesterday was a big day. March 24 by itself doesn’t mean much. But coupled with the event of “opening cherry blossoms” it is one of the most anticipated days of the year.  Especially for my Japanese friends who have been speculating and predicting this date with great enthusiasm and vigor since the day I arrived last January.

Against what many said to be “all odds given the weather,” the cherry blossoms have arrived in Tokyo. In fact, they even arrived before my parents had to leave for their trip back to snowy Minneapolis. I must admit, cherry blossoms are gorgeous. But Japanese nationals crowd around the trees and take pictures like it’s a bi-centennial event instead of an annual one. It gives me the feeling I have been underestimating the importance of the season here.

When I think about it, I realize that for the Japanese, cherry blossoms are much more than just a pretty scene. I found out that despite their pink color, the Japanese associate the cherry blossom flower with masculinity. Because the petals stay fresh even as they fall to the ground, they have been associated with Japanese soldiers who fell well before their time– while they were still beautiful. And it only takes a few days of traveling to realize that the Japanese perceive their cherry blossoms to be their country’s “best face.” I guarantee all tourism photographers in Japan are booked solid starting the day the cherry blossoms arrive.

I was walking with my friend down a boulevard lined with cherry blossoms last night and she was telling me about the traditions associated with the season. When the trees are in full bloom, people take off work to drink beer under the branches. And the lanterns hanging by cords along the streets were provided by the small businesses in the area. She was also reading some signs fastened to the fence along the boulevard. The signs were written by school children and said things like, “The river is pink and you are pink.”

Like a lot of other things, the blossoms are a poignant reminder of how different I am from my Japanese counterparts. To me, the flowers are pretty– something to document with a few pictures. But to the Japanese, the flowers represent their culture, who they are now and who they want to be. And if that seems a little deep and sentimental, you must admit that at least they provide a beautiful excuse for some well deserved time off.

Hurricane Megan

17 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

My friend Megan was here last week for what seemed like five minutes. Actually she was here for a whole week, but between the catching up we needed to do and my long list of things Megan just “had to see”, we drove ourselves to complete exhaustion and still didn’t get to many of the things on our list.

We went to Kyoto, where the highlight was sleeping overnight in a Zen Buddhist temple and riding bikes to all the temples and shrines. We saw Tokyo at night from the the center of Roppongi. We woke up at 5 a.m. to see the world’s largest fish market. We (she) charmed my B-school friends with her charisma and witty conversation at a post-class networking event and we went to the Open Air Museum and enjoyed an outdoor Onsen in Hakone. While I was in class and finishing up a few big projects, she was visiting Hiroshima and hanging out with my parents on a boat tour and at the Imperial Palace. As an appropriate capstone to her trip, we cut it very close and found ourselves sprinting to the train station so she could catch her flight back to the USA.

As I learned first when Brad was here, Japan is a lot more fun with backup. Getting lost and feeling confused is the standard. But it’s better when you have someone along who can help you keep things in perspective. I miss you (again) already Megan!

My name is Hadley and I eat McDonald’s

13 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

I’m the first to admit, I’m a food snob. If I have a choice, I will always pick the non-chain restaurant and have been known to readily shun those uncultured tourists who travel to a foreign country and then eat a Big Mac. But today, I am changing my mind about fast-food cheeseburgers. Today, I am admitting before all my friends and family that I’m a Micky-D’s fan. In fact, I’ve had more McDonald’s “cheeseburger setos” in the past three months than I’ve had combined in the past three years. And you know what else? I’m pretty sure I’ll have a few more before I head back to the USA. Bring ‘em on McDonald’s. I love cheeseburgers!

I’m not complaining about Japanese food. Since arriving, I’ve learned to eat (and even like) chicken hearts, chicken necks, chicken cartilage, fish jelly, raw eggs, raw fish of all kinds and pickled everything. But as my dad said four days after arriving in Tokyo, “sometimes you just want to eat. You don’t want adventure.” To that I say, “too true, Pops. Too true.”

A few weeks ago, I was eating a Bento Box on the train. Bento Boxes are a popular train-ride meal consisting of pickles, fish jelly and beans, etc., organized in a compartmentalized wooden box. I was about to eat a pickled plum when my friend exclaimed, “that looks exactly like (insert gross analogy here)!” I had to admit, it did look a little funny. But I ate at anyway. It wasn’t that great.

The next day, on my way to McDonald’s, the same friend said he couldn’t believe I came all the way to Japan to eat cheeseburgers. My snobby retort? “Yesterday I ate a pickled plum. Today, I will McDonald’s.”

I have come to realize that I was a little tough on those uncultured tourists. McDonald’s isn’t about the experience. McDonald’s is about the lack of experience. In fact, McDonald’s prides itself on its complete lack of adventure. And although this value proposition isn’t appealing at home, there are times in Japan when I want nothing more than a Big Mac, a medium fry and a large fountain Coke…to go.

Memoirs of a Geisha by guest columnist Hadori San

02 Mar 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Oh, life as a Geisha! Every day I must endure slathering, pinning, clipping, cinching and stuffing. But even with my most modest demeanor, you must agree that the result is something to behold– the rare and perfect balance between innocent beauty and alluring seduction.

Last weekend, my fellow Geisha and Samurai took a trip to Kyoto. The ride was an agonizing 2.5 hours long! But luckily, I had hip-hop on my iPod and avoided messing my pristine hair despite a little doze on the Shinkansen.

Complete with beautiful ritual, interesting history and sparkling indulgence, Japan’s Kyoto was the perfect place for an exceptional Geisha like me. With only two days and one night to accomplish all we set out to do, we were busy, busy, busy.

We arrived in Kyoto on Friday afternoon and went straight to Sanjusangen-do temple. Inside, there were 1,001 statues of the Buddhist deity, Juichimen-sengj-sengen Kanzeon. As this is quite a mouthful, most people just call them, “Kannon.” But even with a nickname, 1,001 Kannon statues were a lot for this pretty little Geisha to get her head around. Just shuffling past them in my wooden shoes and toe-socks took almost 15 minutes.

In front of the Kannon were 28 guardian deities, who specialize in things like wind, rain, goodness and evil. I found out this particular set was as unique as me because it is one of the few collections that have remained perfectly “put-together” all this time. Before a fine, traditional dinner (complete with lively conversation) we also had time to visit the Kiyomizu Temple. The temple was built on stilts and overlooked the city of Kyoto. I would have preferred a carriage ride of course, but the view at the top made the uphill hike in my Kimono absolutely worth it.

On Saturday morning, we visited the Nijyohyo castle and saw the infamous Golden Temple. It rained Friday night and the following morning, the light in Kyoto was a strange combination of bright and cloudy. Along with giving me a small headache it also made the Golden Temple shine like my eyes!

After lunch, things got a little more “hands-on.” We went to the Shunkoin Temple where we learned about Zen Buddhism and tried to clear our minds by meditating. I was worried meditation would prove to be a painful bore, but actually time flew! After meditating, the Vice Abbot gave us a kind of green tea called “Macha.” Macha comes from powder and is whisked so it gets frothy. I had to be careful– no one likes a Geisha with a green tea mustache!

Tomato Cake for Luck

28 Feb 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Have you ever been in a group that wanted to drink beer before noon? If so, you have probably also heard the expression “it’s noon somewhere!” You might think this is just a handy excuse that allows the witty conversationalist to crack open the can, raise up their eyebrows and imbibe self-righteously. But like many cliches, this one is popular because it’s got merit. It suggests that we’re part of something bigger. Something that makes exceptions for some and restrictions for others.

I think it’s well known that Japan is a place where women face deliberate distinctions because of their gender. As an American woman, this is something I struggle with. The women I know from Keio are brilliant. But these women are getting their MBAs in a country where they have to pick between families and career. And not in the way we have to pick in the USA. They literally have to decide. If they want kids, their career is essentially over. Historically it’s been tenure, more than education or experience, that influences who gets promoted. So if they do go back to work, they get jobs with less responsibility and make about half as much as men their same age.

Last week, we had a guest speaker come and talk to our class. Although he was Japanese, he was educated in America and has worked in London for many years. As such, he has adopted an approach more “direct” than that of a typical Japanese businessman. When we got on the topic of gender, a Japanese woman in my class asked if he thought things were improving for women in Japan. And his blunt reply was “no.” He talked of Rosa Parks and said, “in America there is discrimination. But that’s because they let everyone on the bus. In Japan, women and non-native people aren’t even allowed on the bus. If they’re not on the bus, you can’t discriminate against them.” It’s this kind of talk that makes my blood boil.

Enter Michiko Kimura. Michiko is an MBA student at Keio who grabbed my arm after class last week to invite me to the grand opening of her restaurant– Cafe Hiyoshi. Michiko will graduate from Keio this spring and opened her cafe, with the help of friends, as a way to have it all. And I think she will. For 3,000 yen each, she treated her opening night guests to an endless stream of delicious food and drink. And at the end, Michiko brought out a tomato cake and served it to her guests, “for luck.” Tomato cake tastes like it sounds, like tomatoes and cake. And even though this flavor didn’t make my list of favorite Japanese foods, I ate it all.

No matter what, everyone lives within a framework of exceptions and restrictions. And Michiko’s cafe has helped me better understand their power. Of course, you need to know your parameters. But not so you can live within them. More, so you can understand how they influence you. Once you realize you’re not on the bus you have two choices. You can give up, or you can make tomato cake.

Hitting the Slopes (with my face, butt, etc.)

25 Feb 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

On Saturday, I tried my hand at snowboarding for the first time. Despite my most positive thinking, I followed in the snow boot-steps of my many wise friends who promised me the first day was going to “hurt.” Yes-sir-ee. That was true. I think you can tell it hurt when you look at the picture of me at the end of our snowboarding day (above). For those of you who don’t know my expressions well, that is a classic example of me fake-smiling with my friend Aya.

But despite the fake smile, I actually had a blast. My two Japanese friends who attempted to teach me the secrets said I have good snowboarding “sense.” I would have to agree. By the end of a three-hour lesson, I was able to make my way down the hill in a somewhat strategic way… “floating like a leaf” across the hill to control my speed (sort of) and reserving the “snowbank stop” for only emergencies.

The snowboarding trip was one of a few the host students at Keio have planned for us during the semester. Each trip is amazing– well planned with a thoughtful combination of of culture, excitement and merciful guidance through some of Japan’s most confusing rituals. In this case, the trip also included my first ride on a Shinkansen (fast train), a Sake tasting and trip to an Onsen (bath). Unplanned but also exciting events included a crazy mountain blizzard and resulting cancelled train. But it all worked out and we’re looking forward to our trip to Kyoto to see temples, shrines and Japanese heritage next week.

Going, going, gone!

21 Feb 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Today I did something that upped my coolness factor at least a few notches. My friend Hannah is majoring in art business and got a tip from a Japanese friend who works at an art auction house that there was an event happening in Ginza this afternoon. So during the short window between class and my group meeting, we bolted to the prestigious district for an afternoon of browsing down our noses at some pretty famous art. No purchases for me. But I was rooting for the army guy with the purple hat and he got close a few times before we had to leave.

The art market is under-rated. It’s truly international and, complete with bursting bubbles and back-room negotiations, it’s got all the drama and excitement of other industries. But it’s also got art. And when you stop to think about the clip art in the last PowerPoint presentation you watched, you will realize that this is the art industry’s sustainable competitive advantage.

189 Hours of Pure Happiness

17 Feb 2008 Leave a Comment

by hadleybarrows in Japan

Avid readers of RioTokyo may have noticed my online absence last week. My valid excuse? Brad was here! He arrived on Feb. 9 (pictured above enduring jet lag at the airport) and we spent the week shuttling ourselves and our stuff between our hotel room in Yokohama and my dorm room in Hiyoshi. Phew!

We had the best time touring Kamakura, Ginza, Yokohama and a ton of other places in the “greater Tokyo area.” He even got to come along on my field study at the beer brewery. It was so nice to show him my dorm room and the restaurants, stores and routes that make up my life in Japan. He’s back on the plane to Minneapolis as I type and my heart has been aching a little since we said good-bye at Narita this afternoon.

But a little post-fun heartache is worth it. Pounding the Tokyo pavement as a team gave me a noticeable boost in confidence and a renewed appetite for Tokyo adventure.